Old Member Nicholas Coghlan (Modern Languages, 1973) is author of several books including, most recently, Under Wide and Starry Skies (Bloomsbury, 2025) and Sailing to the Heart of Japan (Seaworthy, 2024). Both contain intimate and original travel narratives of his adventures sailing to lesser-known and unusual locations with his wife Jenny (Wolfson, 1973). We spoke to Nick about his voyages as student, diplomat, and explorer, and taking a path less travelled.
Can you share a favourite memory from your time at Queen’s?
A favourite memory was learning to row. I’m not athletic, but as a young boy I’d seen the University Boat Race on television every year and this is one thing I’d associated with Oxford. So, I decided to give College rowing a try. As a rather shy Fresher it was a great way to get to know people I’d not otherwise have met, as we gathered outside the Florey Building early on chilly mornings, then jogged down to the boathouses in the mist to learn the basics.
The first summer, I made the Third Eight in the bow position, then the following year became a Coxswain. Even though every oarsman in the crew was a far better and stronger rower than I had ever been, the bends in the river and in-line pursuit did call for some skill and judgment over when to move in for a prized Bump. And, of course, there was responsibility in deciding when to increase the pace or the power of the Eight. Looking back, it was a great exercise in confidence-building.
How did your degree in Modern Languages prepare you for life and your worldwide travels?
In my third year at Queen’s, like most Modern Languages students, I opted to spend the year abroad – in my case, at a teacher-training institute attached to the ancient University of Santiago de Compostela, Spain.
It was a wonderful, eye-opening time as I found myself plunged – alone – into a foreign culture, forced to put into practice the conditional tense and the subjunctive that in the classroom had sometimes seemed so tedious. The process of uprooting myself from one place to reinsert myself in another, with a whole new set of challenges, became an addictive one that I’d come later to repeat and love as the Canadian foreign service sent me to six overseas postings. Santiago was the practice run. And our parallel lives as long-distance sailors saw my wife Jenny and I transition to, and out of, even more different cultures as we meandered through the South Pacific and beyond.
That long-ago year in Spain (1975-6) happened to coincide with the death of the country’s longtime dictator, General Francisco Franco. It would become the most tumultuous year in Spain’s post-civil war history, and in a university town – as I was – I was at the heart of things. Simply trying to understand history being made – while you are in the middle of it – was something I’d find myself doing much later as a diplomat serving in Mexico as the long reign of the PRI party came to an end, in Islamabad as the war raged up the hill in Afghanistan, and in Juba (South Sudan) when civil war broke out in 2013.
And then there was the literature, which stayed with me always. A peak of my teaching career – one that came only in hindsight – was when a girl I remembered as a quiet student who said little, always sitting at the back, wrote to me years later to say that studying José María Arguedas’ Los Ríos Profundos had made her look at life in a different way; I’d first read it at Queen’s. I recall also losing myself one summer in the magical world of Gabriel García Márquez’s One Hundred Years of Solitude, in the Upper Library. A high point of my diplomatic career one morning many years later was meeting García Márquez himself over breakfast at the Convent of Santa Teresa, in Cartagena, for a wide-ranging discussion on Colombian and Cuban politics. My inscribed edition of his masterpiece – “For Nicholas, named like my grandfather” – is one of my most prized possessions.
Whenever possible, when dispatching diplomatic cables to Ottawa from Mexico or Colombia, I’d try to make appropriate literary references. But I have to admit that my biggest hit was a cable on the economic crisis in Mexico featuring the less august Jimmy Buffet: “Wasting Away in Margaritaville”.
Why was it important to you to travel to Japan in particular?
Like most people who served in combat in World War Two, my father hardly ever talked about his experiences. But one day he shocked me by saying that the day the first atomic bomb was dropped on Hiroshima was one of the best days of his life. He went on to explain that – following the end of the war in Europe – he, along with thousands of other infantrymen, had been given their embarkation orders for Japan. And that he dreaded it, more even than the Herman Goering Division he’d faced in Italy. The men had been briefed that allied forces expected 250,000 casualties when the land invasion of Japan’s Home Islands was launched; horrifying stories of the Japanese treatment of western POWs were well known. So, you could say that I inherited a certain prejudice, or at least curiosity.
I wanted to see Japan for myself, to try to get to know the culture, to learn how the Japanese saw the war today, to try to understand my father’s loathing of all things Japanese, which he held for the rest of his life. This is why, faced with the challenge of sailing home to Canada from New Zealand, my wife Jenny and I decided to take the little-used option of sailing via Japan.
What have you learnt from your exploration of places less travelled?
When I was a student at Queen’s, I was awarded a Heath Harrison Travelling Scholarship, which I used to travel to Mexico and follow in the footsteps of conquistador Hernán Cortés. In those days, this was an exotic adventure: most of Mexico was still very much off the beaten track for foreign travellers. Now the world seems a much smaller place. The then-empty strand marked on the map as Cancún, close to where Cortés first landed, has a population that has just reached one million and its airport receives dozens of daily international flights.
But my wife Jenny and I have found that by travelling the world’s oceans – the world’s last unregulated spaces – by sailboat, you can find destinations still un-reached by 747s and discover the world as it was before: less homogeneous, more intriguing, often puzzling but usually welcoming. Even in hyper-modern and over-populated Japan, cruising the Inland Sea under sail took us to places that are today quieter than they have been in a thousand years. It’s hard to deplore the new accessibility of international travel (its democratisation, if you like) but the fact is that these days, by leaving home, you are much less likely to be challenged. Which to me is the whole point of going.
What has been the most challenging part of sailing 70,000 miles?
There’s great romance attached to the idea of untying your shore lines and setting off to sail beyond the horizon. As a boy I’d devoured – alternately – stories of mountaineering in the Himalayas and the adventures of Francis Chichester and Joshua Slocum as they sailed single-handed around the world. When Herman Melville died (in obscurity), it’s said that on his desk they found a slip of paper that read “Stay true to the dreams of thy youth”, and that is a philosophy that has impelled me. My favourite poem – which I have drawn upon in the title of my latest book, is one by that great romantic Robert Louis Stevenson: “Requiem”.
But there are often uncomfortable practicalities associated with fulfilling your dreams. As not-especially-practical people, learning the principles of sailing, of maintaining a small diesel engine, of interpreting synoptic weather charts, of mastering celestial navigation – these were all practical challenges that Jenny and I had to force ourselves to address. Even my degree in Spanish was not especially helpful when it came to recruiting a mechanic in Argentine Patagonia to help us extract a sheared bolt in the crankcase of our small diesel. But there’s a unique satisfaction in preparing for a diverse set of eventualities and threats, then surviving one such event – a gale, a catastrophic equipment failure, landfall on a coral atoll that rises only a few centimetres above sea level – and knowing that you did so because you’d prepared well and without any external assistance.
My favourite places are as much to do with who I was, at a particular moment, as with place itself.
Do you have a favourite place (and why)?
I loved and relished each of my six diplomatic assignments for different reasons: Khartoum for the unexpected kindness and hospitality of the ordinary people of conflict-ridden Sudan, Mexico for the excitement of my first posting at a time of political upheaval, Pakistan for the unforgettable three-week trek we made to the foot of K2 (the second highest mountain in the world), Bogotá for the friends I made among the Afro-Colombian communities resisting aggression by right-wing militias in the jungles of Darién.
On our oceanic travels, there was Robinson Crusoe Island, the lonely rock off the west coast of Chile that inspired Daniel Defoe; the similarly dramatic and then-inaccessible Saint Helena, the site of Napoleon’s exile and home to Jonathan, the world’s oldest living land creature; strange Palmerston Island, where all 50 inhabitants are direct descendants of a 19th Century British privateer and his three Polynesian wives. But when I’m asked where I would most likely go back to, they aren’t necessarily these places. I recognise that my favourite places are as much to do with who I was, at a particular moment, as with place itself. In that regard, I’d have to say San Francisco: the moment of passing under the Golden Gate bridge under sail after our first offshore passage from Canada, and having an exiting American aircraft carrier inform us courteously that he was slowing down so as to give our little 27-footer sea-room.
Please tell us about a book you have recently finished reading and enjoyed.
I’ve recently finished Elif Shafak’s Three Daughters of Eve. It’s set alternately in Oxford around 2001 and Istanbul 15 years later. It recalled to me the intensity of student life among the Dreaming Spires; although if you’re reading it the age of 70 – as I was – it’s hard not to be a little maudlin as you rediscover that now-gone sense of every road being open to you. But I was also intrigued, having lived in the Muslim world and experienced directly the consequences of extremism (in Pakistan in particular), by its exploration of the competing attractions of religion and secularism in the modern world.
Nick Coghlan (Modern Languages, 1973) worked as a teacher after graduation, initially in Argentina, then British Columbia (Canada). Subsequently he switched careers, acquired Canadian citizenship and joined the Canadian Foreign Service. A succession of overseas postings took him from Mexico via Colombia and Pakistan to Juba, South Sudan, where his tenure as Canada’s ambassador coincided with that of Tim Morris (also a former Queen’s student of Modern Languages) as British Ambassador.
In between careers and diplomatic postings, Nick and his wife Jenny (Wolfson College, 1973) have sailed the world’s oceans, covering 70,000 miles in a succession of two 27-ft vessels.
Header image: St Helena, South Atlantic